The fastest dsl speeds available in my neighborhood, in San Benito, are 18mbps. I've heard that some other areas in the upper & lower Valley get faster dsl speeds, up to 45mbps. Is there any information regarding upgrades to the speeds in the Harlingen/San Benito area?
Thanks.
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Has anyone heard anything about spped upgrades for the RGV ?
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Painless AT&T Fiber Installation
Had AT&T Fiber installed today (West University Place TX). Fiber was run from pole to house via aerial (alongside COAX from Comcast).
Simple j-box installed on side of house, and fiber run along siding and up to second floor (per my request), entering the house between the soffit and the siding (no holes through siding). Simple ONT (I believe Alcatel-Lucent/AT&T G-010G-A ONT) attached to the drywall where the fiber enters at the top of a built-in bookcase, with Pace 5268AC router sitting on the bookcase.
Took about 4 hours from start to finish.
Going to have the two services (AT&T Fiber and Comcast) "compete" but likely to drop Comcast as it is about 1/3 the speed.
Pleasantly surprised at the ease of installation, and is running me $70 per month (before taxes and fees).
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New to Uverse
So I got a install of 75Mbps Uverse and I just wanted to post a topic to make sure my tech did a install right cause on speed tests I get around 45mbps to 55mbps down sometimes it goes to 70ish I just wanna make sure the stats it is displaying on my RG is correct I am about less than 400ft from the DSLAM it is on our property and I got a Pace 5268AC but I have a Netgear R7800 behind it because of better 5Ghz speeds and compatibility so let me know if these stats are good or bad so I can get them out here and run some new lines cause our installer was kinda dumb and rushed our install and didn't even set up with DirectTV up right and didn't even put the Genie no where near my modem like I requested
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Custom AT&T Fiber to the Home Install with pictures
This is post an example of how I built a custom setup for my install. Not so much because I like spending money, but rather as an example of how you can do a setup that is just a step above what residential providers normally do on FTTH/FTTP installs.
In studying lots of fiber installs and seeing how things are done in a commercial setting, I wanted to have something more robust than a plastic box and some schedule 20 PVC to protect my fiber. So I came up with the idea to use a metal box as a Demarcation point to bring the fiber into my home. I picked this Bud Industries box from Amazon and waited until the price hit around $50. http://a.co/6eXg7bp With this box, I was able to use 1.5 in Schedule 40 electrical PVC to bring the fiber in and route it down into my crawlspace. I also bought a cheap Fiber NID (network interface device) or DEMARC from Discount Low Voltage for $25. It's an AFL branded OptiNID 300 Series Optical Demarcation Slack Storage Closure that is normally used by companies like AT&T and Google Fiber. http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Connectivity/Fiber-Demarcation-Box/DM000795 I took the guts out of this enclosure and mounted them in my new box. The idea was to create a more commercial like setup that was durable but still looked nice on a home.
I the last thing I bought from Ebay was some OFS EZbend 3.0 fiber rolls so I could pre-run the inside fiber to my IT closet. For $45 I got 8 rolls of 150ft of Single Mode fiber cable with SC Angled Physical Contact (APC) connectors. The part numbered reveled that this was actually stock from a Verizon FIOS in Virginal where the seller was located. That was fine with me as FIOS and AT&T are the same kind of GPON network so I knew the cables would work. I ended up running two from my new box to my closet.
The AT&T tech arrive promptly at 9am on Saturday, February 18th. He had called before to notify he was on his way. During that time he must have activated port 3 on the Tap across the street from my house by connecting it to the assigned split at the PFP cabinet. My house is Durham is feed from the Chapel Hill Central Office on Rosemary ST named CPHLNCRO. We tested the signal strength at the tap port and it was good.
Google crews had cut our pre-buried drop lines so we ran a new temp line across the street from the tap to my back yard where I have the new cabinet. Total distance is a little under 300ft. The tech take a shovel and dig down to drill a little hole in the box to place the temp line. You can see that my neighbor has service on port one of the Tap on the bottom left. The factory made end of the Corning OptiTap drop cable system just screws onto the tap, much like a coax drop. No splicing or terminating involved.
At the box, he agreed to use my setup so we pulled the fiber up into it. 1st step is to strip the single fiber and prep it for adding a mechanical connector.
The next step is to cleave the fiber to the right length for the 3M connector.
After cleaving the fiber and cleaning it with a prep wipe, they insert it into the mechanical connector to terminate it with an SC-APC end. No splicing involved here. Once inserted, they just close the tool to lock the fiber into the connector.
Then the new connector gets inserted into the coupler I had installed. Here he is just removing the protective plastic from my indoor cable I ran previously. The kit the Premise Techs carry is a 3M 8765-APC-FBL/A kit.
Here is what my new Fiber DEMARC looks like up close. The black fiber is the drop from the street and the two white fibers are the indoor runs I installed. The coupler between the two is in the middle. I still need to connect the ground to my house electrical. But it's glass going inside so I'm not worried.
Here is what it looks like when all closed up. Note that he wrote AT&T on it to keep the bosses happy if they inspect his work. I'll remove the AT&T sharpie and use the label maker to make it all look nicer and label all connections. I wanted the drop to be low enough in the ground to protect it. In this picture you can see how the old Frontier Copper NID is cracked where I hit it with the Weed Eater. I'm about ready to cut the Frontier off at the ground as I now have Charter cable, AT&T Fiber and soon Google Fiber. I don't seen any future with Frontier copper.
Here is how I positioned my box in relation to the power meter and old Frontier copper NID that I want to remove. I wanted space around the power boxes in case or expansion or service. And I have a kitchen sink below that window so I wanted to avoid plumbing pipes. Inside my crawlspace, the pip comes out for easy routing to my IT closet.
The final steps were to install the ONT(Optical Network Terminal) and the RG(Residential Gateway, Router/WiFi Access point). For the ONT, the tech just zip tied it to the back of my rack. It's the white box in the picture. The extra indoor fiber is spooled up in the back as my run does not need all 150 ft. I will clean this up later with the shorter 75ft cable he was going to use. The indoor Fiber is OFS EzBend 4.8mm Riser Indoor/Outdoor Single Fiber SCA to SCA Factory terminated assembly with Grip off connector. Part number JR5DK001SCASCA075F-GRIP OFF. The grip off makes the SC connector smaller to feed though holes smaller than an RJ-45 Ethernet Connector.
And here is the Pace 5268AC sitting on a shelf in the rack. Below is my TWC/Charter SB6121 cable modem and my pfSense router on an old PC. I will most likely move the ONT to the shelf with the RG so I can see the status light. The enclosure you see is made to mount it to the wall the way Google does with their Fiber Jack. The ONT takes the Fiber and converts it to a 1Gbps Ethernet connection which is plugged into the RG.
That's it. A Fiber to the Home install using custom enclosure hardware. The rest is industry standard parts modified to my application. This is a great example of how an install to a small business could be run. Was it overkill for what I need. Most definitely. Was it fun. Absolutely! Thanks to my tech for working with me. Because my temp drop ran across the neighborhood road, he put in an emergency bury request. After giving the locate crews time to mark, they called on Tuesday to bury but I rescheduled to today. We got that done this morning and they even shot a new bore under the road and missed the high volt electrical lines. I'll have pics for that soon. The lines are still not as deep as I would like but that's about all I can get out of AT&T because where it has to do is not easy to dig. I'll have to make sure Google doesn't cut my AT&T line when the time comes for their Fiber. Who knows, I may want to run a dual 1Gbps WAN with both providers. This is if it can pay for itself.
Feel free to post any questions. And thanks to AT&T techs here and other members for giving me advice and answering questions.
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ADSL2 Upgrade Options on Long Loop
Since I had my 6mbit uverse installed back in 2015, I've always gotten random disconnects at least once every other day or so. It really seems to follow with temperature changes outside, disconnects around lunch time and then sometimes again in the evening.. I just had a tech out here to investigate but he only said it was because my length was at 7500ft. He did mention I might be able to get a bonded pair installed, and he left with with a phone number of what he described as an "awesome sales guy". So before I call this guy I am wondering what to ask in order to get the best results. The tech just told me to ask for two 3mbit lines and that would put me back at my same speed but would be more reliable.
I've posted stats from my modem that I chart. Looking at my sn down ratio of 7 I'd say 6mbit is all I am going to get. Yet there are the random times where I get 10 as the sn ratio. Another strange thing is that the cabinet I get service from also has a vrad in it for the neighborhoods all around me. Would vdsl do me any better? When I do service checks of addresses around me, most only show 6mbit as the max, yet there are a few scattered here and there that show up to 18mbit including my neighbor which is feed by the same telephone pole as me. I don't really get it.
oh and on my modem error chart, ignore the crc spike, that was from a heavy thunderstorm.
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Looking for other Prem Techs, any area/garage.
Hello, I am a Prem Tech and and looking to talk to other techs, if you could message me, I have a few questions.
thanks
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Five Techs Since March 1; Help
I've looked at DSL Reports for years but never thought I'd have to post. Well, I switched from a slow (slowest for AT&T) wired DSL with my own small modem to AT&T Uverse (12 megs) with their own Pace 5268 modem. I live in an apartment, one story, four units to my building in a semi-large complex of similar one story buildings.
I've had nothing but trouble ever since with Uverse. I cannot keep a solid, steady long-lasting connection. I lose Broadband and Service - the lights go out, twinkle, and after a minute they come back on, slowly, and I can once again access the net. I am hardwired ethernet to my desktop; I can also use another device for WiFi (that has no phone service; just use it for WiFi; it's generally turned off until I want to use it for WiFi). What primarily was happening, I noticed, was in the day when it was hot outside that was when I'd constantly lose broadband and service; at night, I got a more steady stable signal with minimal (sometimes no) disconnects. I also got good steady connections one day during an all day rain (contrary to what most people experience). I mentioned all of this to all the techs.
This has been going on for a month - same thing happens no matter what the techs do. Five techs have come out, including the first one who turned off the DSL and turned on the Uverse. I am at my wits end. I've gone through three Pace 5268 modems (which Tech #5 said wouldn't have been the problem so I should have never been given the two replacements after the original). Techs have checked line into my apartment and it's always "good." One tech sealed off two other inside outlets and made the living room outlet the dedicated outlet for ethernet (I have no landline service, just a puny small cell phone that is not a smartphone).
Just yesterday I had Tech #5 come out (a "senior" tech, just like Tech #4) and he did some different things. I'm not sure what all he did but he did say he changed out some copper screws-ins or attachments (?) in the back terminal box to the apartment. I believe he said he moved me to "another line." He also checked "down the line." He also went to a switching box (I think he said switching) and completely removed my portal and gave me a new one (which was a big deal, he said).
He assured me that all would be fine now. But within three hours after he left - during the evening - it all started to happen again. In fact, last night and today - and now in this early a.m., it's been happening far more often than EVER before. It's nearly constant whenever I want to do something on the 'net (meaning, whatever is happening doesn't like the signal on the line to actually work or connect). So it's now happening BOTH day and night.
I called his manager's phone number that Tech #5 gave me and the manager has not called me back. I am left now to call, once again, AT&T Customer Service and get that crap ass recording until it sees fit to give me a tech.
All the techs on the phone and at my apartment have been great people, very helpful. But no one can fix my problem. I've done things myself to no avail - turned off IPV6 via admin page and my computer; moved modems around the room; used my own cords; changed out a monitor, switched channel from "auto" to "1" in admin - nothing works.
This is discouraging. I can only afford so much for my Internet (forget cable) and am now considering asking them to put me back on slow (murderously slow) DSL.
What to do? What do these stats, copied tonight, look to any one of your most learned eyes? (Is this okay - I can try to do a screen shot if not).
Internet Details
Internet Connection Type
Type Value
Broadband Link Built in modem - ADSL/VDSL
IP Connection Direct IP (DHCP or Static)
Current Internet Connection
Type Value
IP Address 104.183.xxx.yyy
Subnet Mask 255.255.252.0
Default Gateway 104.183.112.1
Primary DNS 68.94.156.11
Secondary DNS 68.94.157.11
Host Name *********
Domain
MAC Address e0:22:04:xx:xx:xx
MTU 1500
6rd IPv6 Internet Connection
Type Value
Default Gateway 2602:300:c533:1510::1
6rd BR 12.83.49.81
6rd Prefix 2602:300::/28
6rd Delegated Prefix 2602:306:xxxx:xxxx::/60
6rd MTU 1472
DSL Details
Modem Type Built in modem - ADSL/VDSL
DSL Line (Wire Pair) : Line 1 (inner pair)
Type Down Up
User Rate 14396 kbs 1021 kbs
Max User Rate 19769 kbs 1153 kbs
Noise Margin 6.5 dB 6.8 dB
Attenuation 22.0 dB 13.9 dB
Output Power 17.9 dBm 12.1 dBm
Protocol G.DMT2+ Annex A
Channel Interleaved
DSLAM Vendor Information Country {46336} Vendor {BDCM} Specific {41912 }
Rate Cap 19601 kbs
Attenuation @ 300kHz 15.2 dB
Required Impulse Noise Protection 17
Uncanceled Echo -3.8 dB Ok
VCXO Frequency Offset 0.0 ppm Ok
Excessive Impulse Noise 0 Ok
Traffic Statistics
IP Traffic
Type Bytes Packets Errors %
Transmit 77688572 843709 1918 0
Receive 2016174930 1435848 69850 4
DSL Link Errors
Collected for 13:15:29
DSL
Type Since Current Current Time Since
Period Reset 24-hr int. 15-min int. Last Event
Link Retrains 45 45 0 0:00:39
DSL Training Errors 46 46 0 0:01:08
Training Timeouts 46 46 0 0:01:08
Loss of Framing Failures 395 395 0 0:01:38
Loss of Signal Failures 45 45 0 0:01:36
Loss of Power Failures 0 0 0 0:00:00
Loss of Margin Failures 0 0 0 0:00:00
Cum. Seconds w/Errors 742 742 0 0:01:36
Cum. Sec. w/Severe Errors 471 471 0 0:01:36
Corrected Blocks 927251 927251 142 0:00:11
Uncorrectable Blocks 21892 21892 0 0:01:39
DSL Unavailable Seconds 3134 3134 0 0:00:39
[moderated - masked some information for privacy]
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ATT uVerse router - Arris NVG599 - unable to open port 443
Hi,
I have a Arris NVG599 router with the ATT firmware installed. I am running it in IP passthrough mode, and have been doing so for some time. Port 80 works fine, however any attempt using HTTPS protocol fails. I have apache set up to use port 443, and can confirm it works over the local network. However, trying from outside the network results in no connection, and no record in the logs for the server or router.
Using cURL's debugging, I get the following:
* About to connect() to 162.228.xxx.xxx port 443 (#0)
* Trying 162.228..xxx.xxx... Connection timed out
* couldn't connect to host
* Closing connection #0
curl: (7) couldn't connect to host
But on the network, I get
* Trying 162.228.xxx.xxx...
* TCP_NODELAY set
* Connected to dutchfork.info (xxx.xxx) port 443 (#0)
* found 173 certificates in /etc/ssl/certs/ca-certificates.crt
* found 699 certificates in /etc/ssl/certs
* ALPN, offering http/1.1
* SSL connection using TLS1.2 / ECDHE_RSA_AES_256_GCM_SHA384
* server certificate verification OK
* server certificate status verification SKIPPED
* common name: dutchfork.info (matched)
* server certificate expiration date OK
* server certificate activation date OK
* certificate public key: RSA
* certificate version: #3
* subject: CN=dutchfork.info
* start date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 23:56:00 GMT
* expire date: Thu, 22 Jun 2017 23:56:00 GMT
* issuer: C=US,O=Let's Encrypt,CN=Let's Encrypt Authority X3
* compression: NULL
* ALPN, server accepted to use http/1.1
> GET / HTTP/1.1
> Host: xxx.info
> User-Agent: curl/7.51.0
> Accept: */*
>
You are being redirected.
How can I resolve this issue?
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Any way to get better vacation hold options?
My Mom has a condo she can get U-Verse service at that she's at sporadically. She's got a condo she'll drive down to and stay for two weeks, come back for a month, drive back down for a week, stay here for six weeks...
U-Verse's options for a vacation hold are a minimum of 2 months. And she'll be away from her condo sometimes for that long, but it's hard for her to plan.
Is there some way to get better vacation hold features than what U-Verse typically offers?
From digging around looking for options, the actually lines in the ground are owned by Bellsouth. There's not anyone besides U-Verse that will resell access to the Bellsouth network is there?
I've looked at mobile hotspot plans. They don't seem right for her, because she does watch TV via the Internet, thru services like Netflix or Sling. E.g., I think she'd use too much data.
She just wants internet service down there, no TV or phone.
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AT&T May Shutdown UVerse.com
Saw this at TVPredictions.com.
https://tvanswerman.com/2017/03/23/att-may-close-uverse-com-in-may/
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Gigapower RG not authenticating?
I have the Pace 5268ac RG and it's been great since last August, until yesterday at 3pm. The service light won't come on solid now, and there was a red alarm light at the ONT.
I called the support line and their answer is, "we'll send a tech out Monday" with an appointment. I'd like to better understand why this happens, when it's been solid for months. Any thoughts? (I haven't done any of the bypass, and turned off dmz+ to a second router months ago.)
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Possible New Gateway - BGW210-700 (3x3 2.4 GHz / 4x4 5 GHz)
Sometimes I tease gateways(like the NVG3150), but they don't always actually come out, so keep that in mind. Sometimes these gateways that actually go through testing have a better chance. The past NVG3150 has not gone through testing at the time of this thread.
For those curious, a new Arris/Pace gateway has gone through testing just recently. The model number is the BGW210-700. The design looks similar to the NVG3150 pictures I saw on AT&T's site. It's basically the same thing as the NVG3150, but with 4x4 on the 5 GHz radio over 3x3, and no SFP port.
It doesn't have external photos, but the label location page seems to be pretty descriptive, showing an AT&T logo/label info.
https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=5ZorwKVaDcGrsSRc0N0Z0g%3D%3D&fcc_id=PGRBGW210
It doesn't seem like it was tested for anything cellular related based off a first glance.
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The death of uverse has been greatly underestimated
What do you think of this? http://www.fiercecable.com/cable/raycom-at-t-pushing-u-verse-blackouts-to-drive-customers-to-directvquote:Driving the usual retrans rhetoric to the level of explosive allegation, Raycom Media has accused AT&T of strategically enabling a blackout of Raycom stations on its U-verse platform in order to drive customers to DirecTV.
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AT&T Pace 5286AC Cascaded Router Setup for Static IPs
So, I got some static IP's on Friday.... and I wanted to put my experiences on the forum for everyone to read, as it was not easy to find documentation on it all, but I eventually figured it out late, late, late Friday night... ;) - I am using a PFSense firewall for my internal router, but most routers with some more advanced settings will do.
So, lets assume you have this fictional IP range: 123.44.55.66/29
This will give you the following IP range:
Network IP: 123.44.55.66
Usable IP 1: 123.44.55.67
Usable IP 2: 123.44.55.68
Usable IP 3: 123.44.55.69
Usable IP 4: 123.44.55.70
Usable IP 5: 123.44.55.71
Gateway IP: 123.44.55.72
Broadcast: 123.44.55.73
For the cascaded router setup, there are a few things you need to know:
1) The IP address of your own router's WAN port must be in the same address space as the Pace GW.
2) That IP address must lie within the /29 of the gateway IP address.
3) Your internal network must be on a different IP space than the gateway and the WAN port on your router.
4) You will keep your "master" IP (the one DHCP address you get from AT&T before you switched to static)
So, what does this mean?
The gateway default IP address is 192.168.1.254. This means your WAN port on your own router must have an IP between 192.168.1.148 and 192.168.1.153. It is possible to change this to a different address, but I left the Pace settings as they were (just in case AT&T ever decides to push firmware to the device that resets it) and decided to make changes to my internal LAN instead.
There are multiple ways of setting the WAN IP address on your own router. Typically you may want to use static IP addresses, but for some reason I could not get that to work.... so I decided to go with a really small range on the DHCP setup on the gateway, and set the lease time to 999 hours. In my case, I configured the Pace GW to hand out .250 through .253, and my own router succesfully grabbed the .250 IP. - I picked a range of a few addresses so I could still hook up my laptop straight to the gateway and get an IP address for configuration and troubleshooting.
I'm sure a static IP will work by the way, I may just not have rebooted both the router and GW enough in between. ;) You will likely have to use a static IP for your own router when you rely on DHCP on the gateway for television. I am an internet-only shop, so I can't help you there.
The other thing you will have to be aware of that your internal LAN cannot exist on the same IP space as the WAN IP and Gateway.
Now, you will probably want to hardwire directly to the gateway on one computer, and keep a connection to your internal router on another computer or wifi/tablet etc. Using the above IP range as an example, you would setup the cascaded router like this:
Step one:
Disable "DMZPlus" on the Pace GW if you have it enabled.
Step two:
Configure the LAN side of your internal router to be on an address OTHER than 192.168.1.x. This can be 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x, but in my case I simply went with 192.168.2.x, so my PFSense firewall became 192.168.2.1, and its DHCP range also changed to that range. In my case this meant 192.168.2.100 to 192.168.2.200, as I use the addresses below 100 for static assignment in my home. (Yes I did have to change them all in my case)
Configure your router to a static IP 192.168.1.250 or use the DHCP range in the GW as suggested above to get an address within /29 of 192.168.1.254
Step three:
In your Pace GW, go to the "broadband" tab, then go to "link configuration".
At the bottom of that page, highlight "Add cascaded router".
Network address: 123.44.55.66
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.248
Under "select router" select the router you had setup in step two.
Step four:
In your Pace GW, go to the "LAN" tab, go to "LAN IP address configuration".
Find your router device in the list. It should say "Cascaded Router: Yes" - ignore all other devices.
Keep firewall to "enabled". (for some reason you can't change that anyways)
Address Assignment: "Private from pool 192.168.1.0"
WAN IP Mappting: "Router WAN IP address (default)".
Step five:
On your own router, add a static gateway to 192.168.1.254 (If you used DHCP above to get the WAN IP, your router should do this automatically for you).
Step six:
Optional: Change the DMZPlus mode again for your router so you can use the original DHCP IP from AT&T as well.
What's next?
Now comes the fun.... re-configuring all of your NAT routes etc. The first thing you have to be aware of is that if you make any request FROM any of your machines, it will default to the original AT&T address. Example, if you go to a "whats my IP" type website, it will show your previous internet IP. If you have servers (such as game servers) that advertise to a website to announce their online/offline state, they will be present using your internet IP, while you might want them to sit on one of the new shiny precious static IP's you just got.
This is where 1:1 NAT comes in. In your internal router of firewall, you can setup a 1:1 NAT rule, which basically binds a certain static external IP to a certain internal IP. Using the IP range above, this could be an example:
Game runs on port 12345 on your internal 192.168.2.20
Setup a 1:1 NAT rule going from external IP 123.44.55.67 to internal 192.168.2.20
Setup a regular NAT rule forwarding port 12345 to 192.168.2.20, with a destination address of 123.44.55.67
Now, when the game server advertises to whatever website it uses for game server lists (e.g. steam or whatever), it will announce itself using the static IP mentioned above, and people will be able to connect to it using that IP address. Note that this will not bypass any firewall rules.
You can still use DMZPlus for your internet IP as well, just in case you need it.
And that should be all there is to it!
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AT&T Gigapower rollout in the CA Bay Area
Hi all,
A friend of mine just had Gigapower installed at his residence in San Jose. During the installation appointment, the techs mentioned that AT&T's goal is to roll out Gigapower within the entire Bay Area by the end of 2017. Wondering how true that is?
I live in a subdivision that was built in 2002 and right across from me is a brand new subdivision which is gigapower wired and yet mine is not :( Hoping they'd fix that soon as I would like some sweet gigabit juice as opposed to being stuck with Comcast :\
Thanks!
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I used to have 75 Mbps - website says I cannot get 75. How do I fix this?
I used to have 75/8 service when I had UV a few years ago. I'm wanting more upload than I get with Spectrum, and UV 75/8 costs less per month than Spectrum Ultra.
However, when I go on the website, it says I can only get 45, even though I've previously had 75. Every other house on my street shows up as 75 eligible.
Is there any way I can get this fixed?
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does AT&T know what time it is?
Is there a time signal embedded in the U Verse data stream, that landline telephones use to set their clock? If so does it adjust from say CST to DST?
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Dmz plus and Spi firewall?
Should I enable spi firewall in my third party router? It's in dmz mode and I have the 5268.
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45 mbps capable?
We are having our gateway moved to another room soon. I'm going to see if the tech can bump our speed up while they are here and keep our price at $40 per month. I know I can get 24 Mbps. Will my lines support the 45 Mbps speed tier?
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AT&T Fiber install questions - can legacy telco demarc be moved?
AT&T recently finished fiber install in my neighborhood (San Diego 92117 Genesee/Chateau area of Clairemont Mesa). Service is from overhead poles in front of the house, as is existing cable and electric. The legacy telco demarc is on the outside of the garage, with the old drops being mid-span between poles. The original inside telephone wires (vintage 1962) were fished through the walls to the main part of the house. Problem is that there is slab floor and attic-less ceiling between the garage and the main part of the house where I have my home network infrastructure installed . The cable and electrical drops come directly off the pole to the main part of the house, where I was able to run coax in to the attic to get to the cable modem in my spare bedroom. That pole also is where the AT&T fiber splitter is located. Will it be possible to get AT&T to install a new demarc on that side of the house? .
And do the run the fiber drop into the house since the ONT needs power? Or should should I put an outside box with a fiber coupler for them to terminate on, and run my own fiber into the house?
Any other things I should be prepared for? I have existing Ubiquiti Edgerouter that I know I will need to replace, along with a 16-port switch, and Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC-Pro access point (I run multiple SSID's and VLAN's to separate my regular home traffic from my "lab").
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